August 6th - BDE (Day 40 Manitowaning to Tobermory, Ontario (42km))
Yep, you did read that right, we only intend to ride 42km today, 36km which have already been completed on the so-labelled 'sprint' down to catch the ferry at South Baymouth this morning from Manitowaning, which is a small place situated on the worlds largest island - surrounded by freshwater. Unfortunately, the aforementioned world's largest haven't quite got it together enough for a roadside tribute, so alas, I have no photo as evidence of my time spent on this world famous place.
Will Ferguson is like the Bill Bryson of Canada, which is probably a big call, but you get the picture. He recently wrote an article regarding the phenomenon of roadside attractions in Canada which by ways of travelling through the prairies have become a much loved phenomenon of my own. He was brought up on the appreciation of these by his father, who would cart him all over the country to see things such as the Worlds Largest Snowman (of which two towns in Canada make the claim - Kenaston, Saskatchewan (got my photo there), and Beardmore, Ontario (not on our route, unfortunately). Ferguson quotes his father at one point, 'History becomes myth, and myth becomes a roadside attraction....now wasn't that worth the drive?'
As you can imagine, any 'World's' of even 'Canada's greatest/biggest/tackiest...' claim at the entrance to any town sparks much excitement from me and I am forced to break paceline and demand my photo in front of it. Yesterday was a bit of a quiet one, with a few boring towns passed through until I hit the jackpot: 'Welcome to Webbwood: Home of Barbara Hanley - Canada's First Female Mayor'
But today has consisted of an early start to make it to the ferry line up - I actually took a chance that the other 26 would cover for me so I could stop for photos of Manitowaning and read up on how white man, after giving the island to the First Nations peoples in 1842, demanded it be returned for white cultivation and settlement, which was allowed in 1862 save for one portion of the island which refused to sign the agreement. I arrived at the ferry terminal with just enough time to get a couple of beers out of the truck for the 1hour 45min ferry ride across the Georgian Bay. Some of the other riders had been waiting for well over two hours - my ten minute wait in comparison was pretty painless. As the truck didn't make it onto the same ferry as the rest of us, we've been forced to sit in the sun and drink all afternoon.
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The difference between a CBA day (Can't Be Arsed) and a BDE (Best Day Ever) can be defined with just a minor minor adjustment to the normal cycling routine. Not that any day has been 'normal'. We've had a bit of a flurry of BDE's during the course of riding around Lake Superior - aided very muchly by the fabulous views, terrific scenery, chances of Moose spotting, and most importantly - awesome downhills. But the ultimate BDE to date occurred the day we left Wawa. Who knows why you would name a goose, let alone a town by that name, but they did for both so go figure.
It was a usual late start from the usual suspects - I was on breakfast duty, and the others like to sleep in so we were taking it easy. Rode the extensive 4km to the first restaurant where we undertook another hot breakfast. Its not unusual to consume up to three breakfasts in one morning. Occasionally, if the conditions are ripe, these restaurant stops go a little long. This particular morning it lasted two hours. We estimated that the 160km ride would not be completed in time for dinner, so we wrote off trying to make it in time, and took it easy, fully intending to absorb the sensational vistas and hikes available to us on this day as we rode towards Pancake Bay - some 80km west of Sault St Marie.
With terrific weather, only a little headwind, and the route full of photo opportunities and check out points, we made little progress over a very long time. As Kirk says, 'we stop for anything', including a stop for a photo in front of 'Katherine Cove' for the alternatively spelt Kathryn. We figured we might as well have a swim in Lake Superior and waste even more time.
We sat down for dinner at 8pm, still some 50-odd kms from the campsite. It too turned into a bit of an epic sitting, with the arrival of the travelling Christian Rock Band to spice things up. We talked of the need to attach lighting to our bikes with the setting sun well underway, and they gladly donated a whole roll of duct tape for the job and gave us a super travelling Christian Rock Band wave as they rolled back onto the road.
So we purchased two flashlights - one which was attached to the handlebars of Todd's bike, and the other to mine. Between the five of us, we had an additional four back flashing lights. We departed the dinner stop at 9.45pm with very little light left but high hopes the light would stick around. I rode at the back directing traffic and lighting as much of the road as possible for the middle three, while Todd took the front. Thank god the wind died down, as he stayed out in front the entire way. Initially we rode with some amazing leftover light fragments that gave lake Superior an amazing glow, and then in complete darkness that was both unnerving and dangerous, particularly with the number of trucks still out on the road. Luckily we were over the big hill climbs for the day, so much of it was fairly level, and followed along the shoreline of Lake 'Supey' for much of the way, giving us an eerie void to our right.
With little over four km left to ride, and the strain of concentrating in such trying conditions of working in a paceline (of sorts) with little light to notify obstacles or even see them, combined with the paranoia of having hit a bump and then wondering if my next flat tyre was about to hit - we were getting pretty tired. We passed a house with its front lights on and a dog sitting on the porch, most interested in our approach. At first he sat there barking, but after Todd passed by, he decided that we were fair game, and he ran onto the road, barking and chasing the tail rider: me.
In complete darkness, all I could hear were the sound of running dog feet and mad barking at my right rear - but I couldn't even distinguish what type of dog it was. It brought on sheer panic, and I began yelling, "RIDE.....RIDE...RIDDDDDEEEEE!!!!"
Arrived in camp at 11.45pm - a super major epic, and great preparation for the following days ride (167km). When there's nothing much to worry about, you might as well make the most of your main mode of sightseeing.
Toronto arrival in two days ride. Needing new shifter cable, and another look at the rear hub. Will consider getting some better suited tyres to try to drop my flat rate (1 every 8 days) and increase the chances of successful 'tyre back on rim without pinching tube' function.
Next Parts:
Part 7 - Day 62, Lower Barney's River, Nova Scotia
